On October 8th 2017 I was supposed to be boarding a flight heading to Tehran from London Heathrow. Instead, I was sat on my arse watching TV at home as my boyfriend, Josh, boarded the flight without me.
I had booked a trip to Iran back in the Spring but just a week and a half before I was due to fly out – my visa was DECLINED.
Luckily I was able to get a refund on my tour but I lost around £300 in flights since they were non-refundable. Even though Josh’s visa was approved, his visa code arrived just under 2 weeks before our tour was due to start. It was a stressful couple of weeks to say the least!
The Iranian visa process for British citizens is not very straightforward and there is a lack of information about it online, even on the Iranian embassy’s website!
The 3 things I want to explain in this post:
- Why my visa was declined
- How to avoid the same thing happening to you
- How to actually get a tourist visa for Iran (This is mainly aimed at Brits but other nationalities may find this post helpful too)
Obviously, I cannot guarantee your visa will be accepted but I can try and give you some tips! *Please note: this post is from Nov 2017 and things may have changed since. Still check government websites for accurate info*
Why was my Iranian visa declined!?
First of all, I want to acknowledge the fact that I am very privileged to be able to travel in the first place and being a British citizen means I have a pretty powerful passport. Iran is just one of the countries where a British passport means extra checks! If this was the other way around – I know it’s not easy for Iranians to get tourist visas for the UK either. I was upset I couldn’t visit Iran this time but I do understand the fact I was even able to try and go there is a privilege I mustn’t take for granted.
British, American and Canadian passport holders have to go through more comprehensive checks to get their tourist visa for Iran. This meant that as well as my visa forms, flight info, passport copy and photo – I had to send a CV. (Oh and I had to send a link to a social media page – yep, they really are checking you over thoroughly!)
For those that don’t know me well – my job is a little random. I don’t currently earn a penny from this blog. Half of the time I work as a film and TV extra (you know – the guys that wander around in the background of the shot that you never fully pay attention to but without them many scenes would be really strange and empty). The other half of the time I freelance in offices and take on various temporary roles.
I knew that Iran would be on the lookout for potential ‘spies’. I heard that if you work for the government or as a reporter/journalist you may be denied entry. You could argue that this blog is a form of journalism but of course I didn’t mention the blog anywhere on my CV or application.
However, in what seems like an incredibly foolish move in hindsight, I kept my film and TV extra work on my CV. It was after all, a large proportion of my job and to leave it out would be lying about my work. I also did not think that extras work would be an issue (clearly, I was wrong).
My CV read, ‘Supporting Artiste’ (this is the fancy official term for an extra) for film and TV. I then listed some of the productions I’d worked on including things like Downton Abbey for UK TV network -ITV and a popular BBC soap opera called, Eastenders; and I think this is where it all went wrong.
At the time I didn’t realise the extent to which the Iranian government hates the BBC. Iranian authorities despise the BBC because of its Persian service. Millions of Iranian’s actually watch this service via illegal satellite dishes. BBC staff (both in Iran and the UK) have been intimidated and threatened. Iran has also cracked down on BBC journalists by freezing their assets!
Perhaps putting other major companies on there like ITV and Sky didn’t do me any favours either but I feel like BBC was the final nail in the coffin. I wish I had done more research about this before I put my CV together! Although they mainly target journalists, I think on this occasion the Iranians checking over my CV probably had no idea what ‘Eastenders’ or a ‘Supporting Artiste’ is. They just saw ‘BBC’ and alarm bells went off.
That was it. I was denied.
I liaised with my tour company and they informed me that they would try and appeal the decision again (they had already appealed it once!) – but to no avail! I even sent a new CV and removed ALL of the TV work. Still denied.
The most frustrating thing is that the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Iran does not tell you specifically why they denied you. So everything I’ve just said is only speculation. But since I’ve got no criminal background, haven’t been to Israel and have no other obvious reason to be a cause for alarm – I’m about 99% certain I’ve got it right. I spoke a few different people on this matter (including an ex tour guide in Iran) and most agree that it was the BBC media work, journalism or not, on my CV that got me denied. That said, pretty much everyone I spoke to was very surprised at the decision.
I even called the Iranian consulate in London. I asked the guy there if he could help me – sadly he was unable to do anything but even he expressed how surprised he was that they denied me for being a supporting artiste.
How can you avoid being denied a tourist visa for Iran?
I need to mention that the visa requirements for Iran have been changing a lot recently especially for Brits, Americans and Canadians. But lately, due to high political tensions *cough* Trump *cough* the visa requirements are even stricter!
People are denied for different reasons and which country you’re from will also be a factor. It can simply come down to who is checking your application and what mood they’re in that day! Perhaps many BBC workers have been approved in the past but my application came at a bad time.
I don’t have all the answers but I can give advice based on my experience as a British passport holder trying to obtain a tourist visa:
- Avoid putting BBC on your CV. If, like me, you freelance at the BBC or maybe even worked there in the past – leave that OFF your CV! If you currently work for the BBC it’s a little trickier. Maybe see if you can write your CV in a way that remains honest about your job role but avoids mentioning ‘the Beeb’. For example, I could maybe have put – ‘Supporting Artiste – Eastenders’ – and left it at that.
- Avoid mentioning media work in general! I would just avoid mentioning media work in general if you can. If that’s not possible then avoid mentioning large media companies (see point above).
- Be careful what social media account you send them. As I mentioned earlier, a new requirement for Brits, Americans and Canadians is that you need to send a link to a social media account. This could be Facebook, Linkedin etc. If you have taken my advice above and skewed your CV slightly – make sure you don’t then send them your Linkedin account that very clearly says ‘I WORK FOR THE BBC’.
- Are you actually a spy? Best avoid it completely then pal. There are some serious consequences if they suspect you of being a spy or spreading propaganda.
- Maybe don’t write a blog about the Iranian visa system. I’m a little worried that if this blog gets popular I could be blacklisted for future visits. But perhaps I’m just being paranoid.
The problem is, the Iranian government is so paranoid and unreasonable at the moment. Just take a look at the very sad case of Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe – and she was simply on a trip visiting family! It’s also interesting to note that Nazanin had previously worked for the BBC.
But I do not want to put you off!
I didn’t write this post to put people off visiting Iran. In fact my orignal plan was to write a post that would encourage people to visit and experience it for themselves before making sweeping judgements about this country and it’s people. The government and its actions do not represent all of the wonderful Iranians living there.
I had heard this a lot before I booked my trip and now Josh can back up the statement: Iranians are some of the most friendly and welcoming people ever! It is also safe to visit despite what many people may tell you.
Josh explained that people were always so keen to chat to him, super friendly and were never pushy and forcing you to buy from them in the markets (which is pretty rare).
Iran also has a lot of fascinating history and some of the most beautiful Mosques.
Information on how to actually get a tourist visa for Iran
Who needs to get the Iranian visa in advance?
If you are a passport holder from one of the following countries you will need to apply for a visa in advance:
- United Kingdom
- United States
- Sri Lanka
Who can get the Iranian visa on arrival?
- Passport holders from 180 different countries can travel to Iran and obtain a 30 day visa on arrival. It is supposed to be pretty straightforward to get your visa at the airport. You just need the following: a valid passport, passport photo, travel insurance, hotel information and cash in USD. You don’t need a letter of invitation or visa code but if you’ve booked a tour you can obtain one of these to make the process quicker.
I’m not going to go into great detail about visa on arrival since I haven’t done it myself but 1st Quest is an online travel agent with lots of helpful information that I would recommend checking out. Other useful blogs are Anna Everywhere and Rucksack Ramblings. It may also be worth checking your government website about travel to Iran and this Wikipedia list is handy too.
Who cannot get a visa for Iran at all?
- Sadly, if you are an Israeli passport holder or you have an Israel stamp in your passport – you will be refused entry to Iran.
How to get your visa in advance:
A step by step guide
If you are a Brit, American or Canadian you need to visit Iran with a tour guide/ tour company. If you are reading this post right now chances are you are already looking into tours or have booked one. The company you use should be able to help give you information about visas and tell you what you need to send over to them.
If you have friends or family in Iran they can help you attain your visa code but I believe you do still need to get the visa in advance at your local embassy.
Want to try to break the rules and visit Iran independently ? I personally wouldn’t recommend it and it could be more hassle than it’s worth but this blog from Lost with Purpose gives helpful advice. They also have a bunch of really informative posts about Iran that I’d highly recommend.
Pick a tour company. Book a place on the tour.
Your tour company will act as a middle man and pass on your visa documents for approval at the Ministry of Foriegn Affairs in Tehran. Whenever I hear ‘Ministry’, I always think ‘Ministry of Magic’! – is it just me?
What you need to provide:
- A completed visa form (your tour company can send you this)
- A scan of the photo page of your passport
- A scan of a passport sized photo
- A work CV/resume
- A link to a social media page (Facebook/Linkedin etc.)
Once approved in Tehran (if you are approved that is!), your tour company will send you a document which acts as your letter of approval/authorisation code. It will look something like this:
You then need to take this to your local Iranian Embassy – in Josh’s case this was London. This visa code is valid for 30 days and I would recommend you go and get your visa stamp as early as possible.
Get the visa stamped in your passport. This will require sending your passport off or going in person to your nearest Iranian embassy.
Some things to note:
- For citizens of America or Canada, there is a Pakistan Embassy in Washington D.C, you can get the Iranian visa issued there by post.
- A lot of Iranian embassies in Europe require fingerprints so you have to go in person and cannot pick up a visa on behalf of someone else.
Getting your visa at the London embassy:
Sorry Americans/Canadians – I can help ye no further! Unless you are picking up your visa from London which I think is possible*. But Brits- here is how the visa collection process went down in London.
First, it is important to note that the visa collection takes place at the Iranian Consulate NOT the Iranian Embassy. They aren’t too far apart so if you turn up at the wrong one at least you aren’t miles away!
Ladies, I’d recommend you wear a headscarf inside in the consulate.
*Don’t quote me on that one.
Nearest tube stop to the Iranian Consulate: High Street Kensington.
Opening hours for visas:
It’s so important you make note of this! The consulate is not open everyday. Annoyingly, if you work a 9-5 job it makes taking time off work too:
The consulate is open Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 2 to 5 pm
Get there for 2pm- Josh said there was already a queue outside before 2. Once you go inside you are allocated a numbered ticket to determine your place in the queue. Numbers are then called out in order and you go up to one of the counters when it’s your turn.
What you need to bring:
- Your passport
- Completed visa form (you can download and print off the form from here or you can fill one out at the consulate)
- Your authorisation code (pictured above in Step 3)
- 2 passport size photos (ladies need to wear a headscarf)
- Cash for the visa fee (they only accept cash)
How much does the Iranian tourist visa cost?
A lot. The visa is way too expensive and it seems so dodgy that they only accept cash. I really hope that these prices go down in future.
If you need the visa stamp that same day it costs £250.* You pay cash, leave your passport and forms with them and then return at 5pm to pick up your stamped passport.
If you do not need the visa stamp the same day it costs £155. You leave your passport and forms with them and they post it back to you. The biggest piss take is that they charge you extra for the envelope and postage ! Josh said this was approximately £6-7. So your total visa cost is at least £160.*
Unfortunately, Josh’s authorisation code arrived under 2 weeks before we flew out. By the time he was able to get the afternoon off work and get to the consulate he could not risk the postage option so had to pay for same day.
*The Iranian embassy’s website does not list the visa prices. I am just telling you the prices Josh had on the day he went in October 2017. It is possible the price could change. Be prepared and bring £50 extra in cash just to be safe.
Once you’ve got your stamp you are all set to go! This is what Josh’s looked like:
You can find some more info on the Iranian Embassy London website but I have to say – I’ve probably given you more detailed information in this blog than what they list on their website!
I have to say that although this whole experience was VERY shitty, it made me realise that many people around the World have to go through lengthy and often unreasonable visa processes. I take this for granted too often because I have a British passport and it’s usually very easy to travel somewhere and extremely unlikely you’ll be denied!
I hope you’ve found my blog interesting and helpful – let me know in the comments. Has anyone else been denied entry to Iran? I’d love to hear from you so we can share our sorrow at missing out on this fascinating country!